Is there anything more becoming to a posterior than a well cut pair of jeans? Ms. LYNN DOWNEY, the archivist and historian for LEVI’S, believes that there is not. In her 24 years in the role, she has undertaken the heroic task of cataloguing the brand’s denim incarnations from the earliest ‘XX’ style (not to be confused with the pop group of the same name) through to the 501 worn by cowboys, crooners and Hollywood rebels.
FANTASTIC MAN: What’s the proudest piece in the LEVI’S collection?
LYNN DOWNEY: Well that would be the oldest item, which dates to about 1879 and is literally the world’s oldest pair of jeans. It’s when the 501 was just called XX.
How does one go about storing a pair of valuable jeans like that?
It’s very high security in the archives. They are in San Francisco, and we have two fireproof safes. We use fabric like unbleached muslin, a neutral storage medium, and we have a lot of other pieces that are in acid-free boxes. We also open the fireproof vaults every day so mould doesn’t grow. They’ll last forever if we keep them that way.
Jeans have a reputation as the most hardwearing garment.
People didn’t worry about taking care of their trousers in the old days. Some of these working men would never wash their jeans. We bought a 1950s pair of from a man who said they were his fishing jeans. They came to us, and he’d never washed them.
Surely they stunk?
Oh, they were awful! He had cleaned his fish gutting knife on them. So my co-worker literally took them home, threw them on her driveway and turned a hose on them. We have another pair that came out of a ghost town in Nevada. They were in a ball of mud, and we had to soak them and soak them in water. Water won’t hurt the denim, but you have to get the dirt out.
Is water the best way to wash jeans, rather than detergent?
Well, I wash mine in cold water and hang them outside on my clothes line. That’s what they did in the past, and that’s good enough for me. I wouldn’t want to put all those chemicals in them myself.
Do you have a dedicated network of people on the lookout for denim treasures?
I’ve been an archivist for LEVI’S for 24 years, and I’ve been buying all that time, but there’s only so much out there and the supply has kind of run out. I have one guy in Southern California who sells pieces to me. About every 18 months I get an extraordinary old pair that came out of a mining town or a garbage dump.
What makes a pair of jeans ‘extraordinary’?
There’s nothing sexier than a good arse in a pair of jeans, is there?
Yeah! I totally agree.
The subversive connotation of jeans has disappeared now though, hasn’t it?
I don’t know. I think there’s still some pockets where jeans are seen as a little bit ‘out there’. You know, when OBAMA wore jeans people remarked upon it – all those Ivy League types. But why shouldn’t the president wear jeans?
Do you think there’s anyone that shouldn’t wear jeans?
Oh heck no. Everyone should wear jeans.
(Text by Owen Myers. Photography by Justin Borbely.)
And so, the curtain rises on a new issue of FANTASTIC MAN – the 20th edition, for Autumn & Winter 2014. Indeed, the mysterious mustachioed figure on its cover is double Oscar-winning Mr. CHRISTOPH WALTZ, an acting Austrian who, in defiance of Hollywood convention, has risen to international prominence in his sixth decade. In a vastly entertaining interview, the star of INGLOURIOUS BASTERDS, DJANGO UNCHAINED, CARNAGE and now BIG EYES discusses the advantages and pitfalls of being a late bloomer. Elsewhere in this well-rounded issue, the chronicler of international fashion commerce Mr. IMRAN AMED is profiled, as is the exceptional Canadian author and artist Mr. DOUGLAS COUPLAND, plus the phenomenon of French-language cinema Mr. XAVIER DOLAN. The latter showcases his precocious versatility in an array of ravishing outfits. Speaking of matters fashionable, a definitive guide to the new season’s luscious WINTER COATS is proudly presented, and revered British critic Mr. NICHOLAS DE JONGH prescribes unusual getups to be worn for an opening night at the THEATRE. Those yearning for a cherished but DISCONTINUED PERFUME will hopefully find solace in a nostalgic reportage entitled ‘EXTINCT’. There’s plenty more besides, of course. Order now
Periodically, FANTASTIC MAN hosts a marvellous dinner, proper cocktail or a full-out rumbling party. Please find below a small selection of past events.
An Opening at the ICA, London 2013 Dinner at Selfridges, London 2013 Spring in September, Melbourne 2012 An Intimate Cocktail, New York 2011 Disco Dance Party, New York 2011 The Super Show, Berlin 2010 The Super Show, London 2010 Absolut Fantastic, London 2009 No Labels, Stockholm 2009 Fantastic Man Fragnance Launch, Paris 2009 Fantastic Man No. 8 Dinner, London 2008 The Gentleman’s Jeans Launch, Paris 2008 Fantastic Man No. 2, NYC 2005 Fantastic Man No. 2, Paris 2005
Available for immediate download is the FANTASTIC MAN APP. Rather than churning out a pdf-echo of the magazine’s appearance, FANTASTIC MAN has designed an app that, once installed, will deliver the DAILY RECOMMENDATION every weekday on that most wonderously advanced of devices, APPLE’s iPad. The FANTASTIC MAN APP is, of course, entirely free of charge and is available on APPLE’s iTunes store. Enjoy!
FANTASTIC MAN may be purchased conveniently online. Most recent issue No. 20 features Mr. CHRISTOPH WALTZ on the cover. A number of back issues are available, including issues No. 19, No. 17, No. 13, No. 12 and No. 9. All orders are handled by Bruil & van de Staaij and can be delivered worldwide. Order now
Subscriptions are available worldwide. A one year subscription of two issues will be €22 for Europe, $35 for the USA and $33 for the rest of the world (airmail). Please visit our subscription service BRUIL & VAN DE STAAIJ to get your subscription on-line, or e-mail to email@example.com for more information. For subscriptions in the USA, please visit EXPRESSMAG.
(All orders are handled by our distributor Bruil & van de Staaij)