THOM BROWNE
“I think it’s so chic to get smashed and end up on the floor in your three-piece suit.”
Photographed by Marcelo Krasilcic, issue no. 1
THE DANCER
Ander Zabala, Photographed by Heinz Peter Knes, issue no. 1
AMANDA LEAR
“My ambition is to pay the rent and to paint and sing and act. And to sometimes be able to walk into the PRADA store and buy myself a nice new handbag.”
Photographed by Todd Cole, issue no. 2
GILES DEACON
“I've been wearing glasses since I was about five.”
Photographed by Viviane Sassen, issue no. 2
SPARKS
“We are inspired by the mediocrity of everything else in pop music.”
Photographed by Andreas Larsson, issue no. 2
WIM CROUWEL
“Design was so interesting and full of spirit in 1928, the year of my birth.”
Photographed by Viviane Sassen in the Rietveld Schröder House in Utrecht, issue no. 3
STEFANO PILATI
“You can work out your obsessions in your work. That’s what I’m doing.”
Photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, issue no. 3
PETER SAVILLE
Photographed by Blommers & Schumm, issue no. 3
DIEDERIK VERMEER, photographed by Viviane Sassen in Cape Town, issue no. 3
HELMUT LANG
“I’m perfectly happy.”
Photographed by Bruce Weber, issue no. 4
ANDRÉ BALAZS
“In my childhood I wanted to be a sculptor. Part of the attraction was the ability to create something out of nothing, but one of the things I found frustrating was working in a vocabularly that very, very few people understood.”
Photographed by Terry Richardson, issue no. 5
LUCAS OSSENDRIJVER
The style is quietly quirky, softly washed, casually elegant.
Photographed by Daniel Riera, issue no. 5
REM KOOLHAAS
“It’s essential to have mystical experiences. I have them all the time.”
Photographed by Wolfgang Tillmans, issue no. 6
STEVE McQUEEN
“When you’re filiming something, it’s like feeling your way through a house in the dark.”
Photographed by Viviane Sassen, issue no. 6
ADAM KIMMEL: “We’ll see how it goes.”
Photographed by Alexei Hay, issue no. 6
TOM FORD
“Paris is not a priority for us. Parisian men don’t know how to dress. ”
Photographed by Jeff Burton, issue no. 7
TOBIAS MEYER
“I can’t judge. I’m an auctioneer. I can only accept. I have to suspend judgement.”
Photographed by Terry Richardson, issue no. 7
MALCOLM JACKSON wearing delicious silk, photographed by Andreas Larsson, issue no. 7
FRANCESCO VEZZOLI
“To think about what’s going to happen after you’re dead is nonsense.”
Photographed by Matthias Vriens, issue no. 8
OKWUI ENWEZOR
“When I look at a picture of myself at 17 it seems that I’ve worn the same type of clothes ever since.”
Photographed by Terry Richardson, issue no. 8
LESBIAN LOOKS
Photographed by Andreas Larsson, issue no. 8
PIERRE CARDIN
“I’m not much of a womaniser, as you’d probably gathered, even though I do own Giacomo Casanova’s Venetian palazzo.”
Photographed by Paul Wetherell, issue no. 9
Dr. BRANDT
“I don’t like to look like everyone else. You can see that right?”
Photographed by Andreas Larsson, issue no. 9
BRET EASTON ELLIS
“My mother sends me all these links. So that's really how I keep up.”
Photographed by Jeff Burton, issue no. 9
AIDEN SHAW
Photographed by Daniel Riera, issue no. 9
GIBRIL GEORGE WEARING A SUMMER SUIT, PHOTOGRAPHED BY VIVIANE SASSEN IN ISSUE NO. 9
EWAN McGREGOR
“I don’t understand the idea of just delivering lines. I find it boring.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 10
HAMISH BOWLES
“The fashion writer Caroline Kellett and I were wearing the same Chanel jacket.”
Photographed by Juergen Teller, issue no. 10
MATTHEW MONEYPENNY wearing city suits, photographed by Daniel Riera in New York City, issue no. 10
WOLFGANG TILLMANS
“You know, I see myself as gentle.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 11
ALEXIS TAYLOR
“They thought it was a girl singing.”
Photographed by Paul Wetherell, issue no. 11
JAMES WELLS photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby in Maspalomas, issue no. 11
AI WEIWEI
“Yeah, I’m anti-China. What’s the big deal?”
Photographed by Ai Weiwei, issue no. 12
DAVID WALLIAMS
“She didn’nt know I was on TV.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 12
BRYAN FERRY
“Yes, it’s about being fabulous.”
Photographed by Juergen Teller, issue no. 12
FENN SEAN OPENING THE SUPER SHOW, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JONATHAN DE VILLIERS, ISSUE NO. 12
STEPHEN GALLOWAY PHOTOGRAPHED IN BERLIN BY PAUL WETHERELL, ISSUE NO. 13
DAVID BECKHAM
“I’m just lucky”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 13
HAIDER ACKERMANN PHOTOGRAPHED IN PARIS BY WILLY VANDERPERRE, ISSUE NO. 13
DAVID COPPERFIELD
“I had some bad clothing choices... what can I say.”
Photographed by Roger Deckker, issue no. 14
RAF SIMONS
“I want new, new, new, new, new.”
Photographed by Willy Vanderperre, issue no. 14
JAMES WELLS IN THE 11TH LOOK, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREAS LARSSON, ISSUE NO. 14
NATE SUN photographed in Beijing by Daiel Riera, issue no. 14
TIM BLANKS
“Some people wanted a Mercedes or a Rolex when they were growing up and I was, and am, perfectly happy with a loud shirt.”
Photographed by Roger Deckker, issue no. 15
MATTHEW SLOTOVER
“The NME was my bible. I still have every issue from 1982 to 1989.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 15
DANIEL and DOMINIC KING walking on Benidorm beach, photographed by Andreas Larsson, issue no. 15
ALBERT REED, LOGAN MACRAE AND JORDAN STENMARK IN PALM SPRINGS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIEL RIERA, ISSUE NO. 15
OLIVER SIM
“Not lonely, just a bit confused.”
Photographed by Willy Vanderperre, issue no. 16
JONATHAN SAUNDERS
“What I love about menswear is the subtlety and detail.”
Photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby, issue no. 16
ROMAN COPPOLA
“You hit the end and a ball of smoke would fly out.”
Photographed by Todd Cole, issue no. 16
CHRIS BEEK and MORGAN WATKINS playing chess
Photographed by Robi Rodriguez, issue no. 16
JEREMY DELLER
“I’ve been interested in prehistory since I was a kid.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 17
ADRIAN BOSCH DOING SOME SPRING CLEANING, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREA SPOTORNO, ISSUE NO. 17
ROBERTO BOLLE: “I ALWAYS LIKED THE IDEA OF HAVING SUPERPOWERS”, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREAS LARSSON, ISSUE NO. 17
PETER YORK
“I can’t bear those fake elbow pads that seem to be on everything these days. You should only mend things when they need it.”
Photographed by Andreas Larsson, issue no. 18
TOM BACHTELL
“I often feel like I’m learning to draw again from scratch every day.”
Self-portrait, issue no. 18
LORD SNOWDON
“I very much believe in privacy.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 19
JEFF WALL
“It’s a balancing act.”
Photographed by Blommers & Schumm, issue no. 19
CHRISTOPH WALTZ
“I can’t run about every day thinking that I have two Oscars.”
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, issue no. 20
XAVIER DOLAN: “I start on a subject and start yakking and never finish.”
Photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby, issue no. 20
KARL KOLBITZ PHOTOGRAPHED BY LIZ COLLINS, ISSUE NO. 20

TEN YEARS IN PRINT
Remarkable but true: FANTASTIC MAN has provided a whole decade of entertainment and excitement in magazine form. Throughout its anniversary year and beyond, the original style journal for men will continue to redefine the genre.


20
starring on the coverfeaturing WIM CROUWEL on page 158,
 as well as the following...CHRISTOPH WALTZ 
Autumn and Winter 2014 ... 262 pages

The moustachioed figure on the cover of the 20th edition of FANTASTIC MAN is the Austrian actor and double Oscar winner CHRISTOPH WALTZ. Inside, the star of INGLOURIOUS BASTERDS and BIG EYES discusses the advantages of being a late bloomer. A trio of very impressive Canadians is profiled: the fashion commerce chronicler IMRAN AMED, the author and artist DOUGLAS COUPLAND and the phenomenal French-language cinematographer XAVIER DOLAN. An extensive guide to the season’s WINTER COATS is presented on the back of the amazing model KARL KOLBITZ, GIORGIO ARMANI contributes a tip for cold-weather dressing, and writer PAUL FLYNN reminisces about his formative years spent in the thrall of JOHN TIFFANY, now the toast of all Broadway. Those yearning for a cherished but DISCONTINUED PERFUME may find solace in a nostalgic reportage entitled “EXTINCT”, whereas the photographic series “PILL” examines the miracle of modern pain relief, and the ten-page “MEN WHO DELIVER” feature proposes fabulously utilitarian fashions. Also, a telephonic discussion is enjoyed with hairstyling legend CHRISTIAAN, and a hilarious yet poignant set of postcards composed by the late performer LEIGH BOWERY is kindly shared by KIM JONES.


SUGGESTED FURTHER READING

MORE MARVELLOUSNESS ON PAPER FROM THE MAKERS OF FANTASTIC MAN

Pictured above is a delectable spread of enlightening printed matter from the same stable as FANTASTIC MAN. From left to right: THE GENTLEWOMAN is our cherished sister publication, of course. Produced from the heart of fashionable London, it carries exquisite style suggestions as well as conversation and writing contributed by the world’s most amazing women. That vision in pink is FOREVER BUTT, the new hard-backed compendium for TASCHEN of the best and baddest bits of BUTT, our celebrated magazine for homosexuals. COS magazine is a chic cultural biannual produced for the retailer of the same name, featuring insightful interviews with luminaries from the worlds of art, design and technology. Next: two collaborations with the book publisher PENGUIN. From 2013, BUTTONED-UP is a book exploring the fashions of East London. THE HAPPY READER is a bookish quarterly devoted to the pleasures of devouring the written word. The debut issue is out now.


SOME FILMS

MOVING IMAGES FROM THE MAKERS OF FANTASTIC MAN

Sometimes, the foxiest fashions are best appreciated in motion. Seen above, 2010’s SUPER SHOW is a spectacular menswear catwalk extravaganza staged in a secret location in front of an audience of zero. For SPINS, which won the prize for Best Artistic Direction at the A SHADED VIEW OF FASHION FILM festival, professional men of the ice rink perform incredible athletic manoeuvres in slow-motion, dressed, of course, in the latest skin-tight styles. ROTATION is a dazzling compendium of startling modern dance to herald the arrival of DIOR HOMME’s Autumn & Winter 2013 collection. Please enjoy them all.


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GET HOLD OF AN OLD FANTASTIC MAN

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THE DAILY RECOMMENDATIONS
FANTASTIC MAN has dispensed approximately 1,500 ingenious and instructive online Daily Recommendations since 2009. Please scroll down the page to enjoy a random assortment of good advice.


HOW TO WASH A 501

03.05.2013 – Is there anything more becoming to a posterior than a well cut pair of jeans? Ms. LYNN DOWNEY, the archivist and historian for LEVI’S, believes that there is not. In her 24 years in the role, she has undertaken the heroic task of cataloguing the brand’s denim incarnations from the earliest ‘XX’ style (not to be confused with the pop group of the same name) through to the 501 worn by cowboys, crooners and Hollywood rebels.

FANTASTIC MAN: What’s the proudest piece in the LEVI’S collection?
LYNN DOWNEY: Well that would be the oldest item, which dates to about 1879 and is literally the world’s oldest pair of jeans. It’s when the 501 was just called XX.
How does one go about storing a pair of valuable jeans like that?
It’s very high security in the archives. They are in San Francisco, and we have two fireproof safes. We use fabric like unbleached muslin, a neutral storage medium, and we have a lot of other pieces that are in acid-free boxes. We also open the fireproof vaults every day so mould doesn’t grow. They’ll last forever if we keep them that way.
Jeans have a reputation as the most hardwearing garment.
People didn’t worry about taking care of their trousers in the old days. Some of these working men would never wash their jeans. We bought a 1950s pair of from a man who said they were his fishing jeans. They came to us, and he’d never washed them.
Surely they stunk?
Oh, they were awful! He had cleaned his fish gutting knife on them. So my co-worker literally took them home, threw them on her driveway and turned a hose on them. We have another pair that came out of a ghost town in Nevada. They were in a ball of mud, and we had to soak them and soak them in water. Water won’t hurt the denim, but you have to get the dirt out.
Is water the best way to wash jeans, rather than detergent?
Well, I wash mine in cold water and hang them outside on my clothes line. That’s what they did in the past, and that’s good enough for me. I wouldn’t want to put all those chemicals in them myself.
Do you have a dedicated network of people on the lookout for denim treasures?
I’ve been an archivist for LEVI’S for 24 years, and I’ve been buying all that time, but there’s only so much out there and the supply has kind of run out. I have one guy in Southern California who sells pieces to me. About every 18 months I get an extraordinary old pair that came out of a mining town or a garbage dump.
What makes a pair of jeans ‘extraordinary’?
Pre-1900.
There’s nothing sexier than a good arse in a pair of jeans, is there?
Yeah! I totally agree.
The subversive connotation of jeans has disappeared now though, hasn’t it?
I don’t know. I think there’s still some pockets where jeans are seen as a little bit ‘out there’. You know, when OBAMA wore jeans people remarked upon it – all those Ivy League types. But why shouldn’t the president wear jeans?
Do you think there’s anyone that shouldn’t wear jeans?
Oh heck no. Everyone should wear jeans.

(Text by Owen Myers. Photography by Justin Borbely.)